Between “Artsy” prints seen on catwalks and exhibitions dedicated to Fashion designers, the borders between art and fashion have never been so thin.
I chose the example of YSL’s Mondrian dress inspired by Piet Mondrian’s painting.
Presented in the autumn-winter 1965-66 collection. It was made out of White black and taupe wool jersey.
Was on the cover of French winter vogue of 65.
Unlike the other fashion houses who, at that time where still working on designs drawing the women’s waist, YSL created a straight dress with a print inspirited by Mondrian’s painting. A boldness that will owe him the eulogy of the American press and the nickname “King of Paris”.
Before becoming a designer YSL wanted to be a painter, he was particularly interested in Bauhaus, cubism and futurism. He made his designs inspired by the many paintings often geometric styles that he loved and collected with his associate and companion Pierre Bergé. Matisse, Goya, Gericault, Ingres, Manet, Degas, Gris, Braque… From ancient to Modern Art. He liked the idea of liking paintings and fashion, he was persuaded that a painter is still from out time and can accompany everyone’s lives.
YSL thought that the planarity of the 60’s sack dress was ideal for colour blocks. His first reference was Mondrian his design was very structured precise parallel with primary colours. We could consider it as a test to the spectator. By using very simple motifs he could only sublime the dress. He worked in collaboration with Piet Mondrian to create his collection. In the collection he made other Mondrian dresses with different compositions and colours. He reinterpreted Mondrian’s work in his own way.
YSL’s tributes broke ranks between artistic styles. The Mondrian dress had such an impact through the international fashion world. the Mondrian look appeared in all price ranges and all kinds of garments, from shoes (Nike to hats …) It was also seen in furniture ( the Gerrit Tomas chair) and even Architecture (schoder house). Since then the designer regularly mixed his work with the art world in what he called his dialogues : Mondrian, wesselman, Poliaoff, Van Gogh, Matisse, Picasso, Braque, Léger, Apollinaire, Aragon, Cocteau, Laulanne any loads more.
These artists permitted him to reinvent a language which became his.
